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Going back to your hometown is like visiting a museum about yourself

Everything is slightly smaller than you remembered. The school, the streets, the distance between places that felt enormous when you were covering them on a bike. You drive a route that used to take twenty minutes and it takes seven and you sit in the parking lot of wherever you’ve ended up trying to figure out where the time went — not the years, the actual minutes. The geography shrank while you weren’t looking and it did it without telling you.

The places that mattered most are usually gone or wrong. The restaurant where something important happened is a phone repair shop. The field is a subdivision. The convenience store where you spent a genuinely embarrassing amount of your adolescence is now a different convenience store with different lighting and it doesn’t count. The new version is standing in the spot but it has no idea what happened there and there’s no plaque.

What’s strange is the things that haven’t changed. There’s always something — a diner, a road, a particular smell in a particular neighborhood — that is exactly as it was and hits you somewhere below the ribs. Not nostalgia exactly, something more physical than that. Your body recognizes the place before your brain does. You drove this road at seventeen with the windows down and something was just starting and your whole nervous system kept that on file and has been waiting to play it back.

The people who stayed are living in a parallel version of the place you left. Same streets, different life, different set of references. They remember things you’ve forgotten and have forgotten things you still carry. You’re the same age and have completely different museums. When you see each other you spend some time comparing collections — do you have this one, what about this — and sometimes it matches and sometimes it doesn’t and both of those feel like something.

I went back last spring for a weekend. Drove every old route. Ate at the one place that was still there. Felt eighteen for about forty-five seconds outside the house I grew up in and then felt completely my actual age again. It was enough. It’s enough just to know it’s still there, holding the shape of something you used to be, not asking you to be it again.